Yarrow Healing Salve - Visual Recipe

Today's recipe is for a simple Yarrow Salve. Yarrow, a.k.a. Achillea Millefolium, has been praised for centuries in western culture as a great healing herb. Traditionally Yarrow was used to treat wounds due to it's styptic properties. It's colloquial nickname of "nosebleed" reflects one of it's common uses.

Here I will cover step by step a method for making a Yarrow Salve. The nice thing about this recipe is that it does not take much in the way of supplies and can be prepared in a small space.

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TOOLS
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Candle warming plate
Small ceramic mug
Measuring spoons
Stirring stick
Measuring cup
Cheesecloth
Small mesh strainer
Empty 2oz jar with lid
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INGREDIENTS
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1 oz Jojoba Oil
1 oz Olive Oil
3-4 Yarrow Leaves
3-4 T Yarrow Flowers
1 1/2 t Beeswax
5 drops Vitamin E Oil

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INSTRUCTIONS
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Turn on the candle warmer
Place mug on the warmer
Add jojoba and olive oil to the mug

Add yarrow leaves into mug
Break apart if needed

Add yarrow flowers to mug
(Fresh, white flowers are best, but dry will do)
Make sure the yarrow is mixed well
The oil should just cover the yarrow

Allow yarrow bits to sit in the warm oil for up to 2 hours

Strain through cheese cloth into a cup

Bundle up excess the cheesecloth around the yarrow and press the bundle against a mesh strainer to squeeze out the last of the oil.

Be VERY CAREFUL, the oil is HOT.
Hot oil hurts, a lot.

Transfer the oil back into the ceramic mug

Warm the oil up again

Shave off the beeswax needed for the next step

Add in the beeswax and stir

Allow the beeswax to melt completely into the oil
This is your salve mix

Warm up a glass jar under water of increasing temperature
Wipe the jar dry
Transfer the warm salve mix into the jar
Allow to cool at room temperature

Voila! Yarrow Salve!

Tidbits from Southern Region War Practice

Since I have decided not to attend Pennsic this year, I felt the need to sate my appetite for a decently long SCAdian event. While not to the scale of the big war, the Southern Region War Practice plus EKU was a nice local event. There was much to be had in the way of weapons practice, but I decided to not bring my bow in favor of taking it easy for the weekend.

Fighters out on the field.

The site turned out to be rather nice. I was able to stay in the lodge with showers, which was pleasant minus the snake that found it's way into my belongings! Thanks to one of my lodge mates and his son, I never had to encounter the scary little fellow. I am much appreciative of that.

The meals at the event were hearty thanks to the hardworking cooks of the Shire of Owlsherst. While I don't have pictures of the feast, I did have the chance to enjoy it and ended up having rather friendly company during the meal.

Though still early for a lot a blooming plants, these little ones were popping up all over the woods. They created little pops of color throughout the site. I didn't want to pluck one, but I did consider transplating a few to my own backyard. I eventually settled for just a picture.

To be quite honest I really decided to go to the event mainly for the East Kingdom University classes. I ended up having the chance to learn how to spin wool properly, tried my hand at making glass beads, learned a bit about blackwork embroidery, fell in love with viking wire weaving and had the chance to sing with some very welcoming folks.

My second attempt at wire weaving still on the dowel

The finished wire weaving piece (and my not-so-period pants)

Djembe Repair - Roping & Tuning (Visual Tutorial)

The last in my series of Djembe repair posts involves the roping and tuning of the drum after having placed a new head. Again, my post really acts as a supplement to the instructions for roping and tuning found at Hawk Dancing. I am happy with the results.

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ROPING (not the Gyptian type)
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I used a section of Dacron rope wrapped around three times and secured with a slipknot for my base "hoop". If you chose to do this, make sure you can fit two fingers comfortably between the ropes and the drum body. This will ensure there is enough room for stringing the verticals.

Next I strung the verticals using another long section of Dacron rope. You are dealing with a lot of rope during this process, make sure it doesn't knot into itself. I worked from the top hoop down and back up again all of the way around the drum. I found it very helpful to sting "anchor ropes" between the bottom and top hoops to keep the head even while I worked my way around with the verticals. These anchors were made using sections of the old rope then removed and tossed aside as I was ready to string new rope in each section.

While stringing the verticals, the head begins to pull down a little and you may get some gathers around the skin hoop. I simply pulled the skin to smooth these out as I saw them.

After stringing the veticles by hand the top of the drum looked like this.

Using a thick wooden dowel, I tightened each vertical section with as much force as I could muster. There are other rope pulling tools for drums available if you want to make this easier on yourself. Since this was a fairly small drum, hand pulling worked decently enough.

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TUNING
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I will try to explain the easiest way I have found to create tuning diamonds on a Djembe.

Start by drawing the end of your rope under two vertical ropes. Will we call them A and B. They look something like this.

Next, using one hand, pull A over B and draw the end of the rope up between them.

You can now pull the rope through to create one section of tuning. It looks like this once the rope is pulled taunt. If it doesn't look like this, try again. You will get into a rhythm of making these as you work around the drum.

When you reach the end, you will be confronted by the last vertical which consisted of a one rope A and a two rope B. Treat this just as you have when making tuning diamonds before. Draw the end of the rope under A and B. Pull A over B and then guide the end of the rope through.

Finish the rope down to the base hoop in the way that makes most sense to you, yet is still pliable enough to re-tune later if you need to.

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FINISHING
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I wanted to create a more substantial handle that my drum had before. In order to do this I used a size 15 crotchet needle and just worked a very simple single chain stitch.

It's basically done by making a loop under the head of the needle as a starting point then repeating this: wrap a new loop under the head, lift the old loop over the head.

After a while, it looks like this. It makes a sturdy strap for carrying the drum.

When all of the roping and tuning if finished, pull the goat skin down over the head and wrap with a bandage overnight. Leave it somewhere where it won't be disturbed.

The next morning, remove the bandage. Your drum head will look something like this.

Simply trim off the excess skin from the head and you are left with a rather handsome drum. From what I understand, once you have completely re-headed your drum you will need to play it for about a week and add a tuning diamond or two if needed.

Making a Set of Celtic Ogham Staves

Today I felt inspired to make a set of Ogham staves. I did some research about these over the past few days and wanted to try to make a set on my own. I created my set from the natural shed of four great trees nearby. It took a while to find appropriately sized pieces and to trim them to vaguely similar lengths. I'm happy that the trees were able to share some fine pieces.


From there I used a knife to carve open areas in which to inscribe each Ogham letter. While I did this, my cat explored around me and acted nasty when I finally decided she must go inside. Once back indoors I used a pencil to place the a letter on each stave with a dot at the bottom to indicate which side goes down. Finally, I went over my pencil inscriptions with a wood burning tool. They ended up looking pretty sexy.

Some handsome staves indeed!

Tonight I will do something special to get them ready for use. In order to get some practice with these, I have offered free Ogham readings on Etsy. Actually, I will post some of the basic information from that listing on here just for educational reasons. Here it is:

What is the Ogham?

The Ogham refers to the ancient Celtic Druidic alphabet. Each letter stave corresponds with one of the 20 sacred trees. Here, the Ogham is used to seek wisdom concerning a certain topic.

How does it work?

The questioner holds in their mind a question that they are seeking guidance about while the reader calls upon the wisdom of the Divine, the Land and the Ancestors. The reader then casts the staves. The placement of the staves and their symbols indicate a message for the questioner.

p.s. I swear I will wrap up my Djembe repair posts soon. They have been pretty popular lately.

Djembe Repair - Goat Skin Head Replacement (Visual Tutorial)

Huzzah! Yesterday both my new drum rope and goatskin head arrived. The head was purchased through Sinclair City Market and the rope was purchased through Radioware . Both places shipped quickly and had very friendly customer service. It may seem odd that I purchased my rope from Radioware, but they offered the best price on a small order of 1/8 inch Double Braid Dacron Rope. I ended up spending about $5 plus shipping on 50 feet of rope as opposed to ordering 100 feet (minimum order) from a drum shop for about $25 plus shipping.

I started by making 14 hoop knots using the instructions at Hawk Dancing. Their method works very well. "Over the ring, through the loop, under the ring, through the loop." Please see their site for some other helpful pictures. A lot of my djembe tutorial photos are a supplement to that guide.

The 15th hoop knot looks very confusing, but is simple once you get it. For this step, the new knot is basically cradled in between the strings of the old. Hawk Dancing has a few photos describing this. Those photos perplexed me a bit, but I found it helpful just to think "Over the ring, through the LOOPS, under the ring, through the LOOPS."

Be patient, it will take a few tries to make the final locking knots.

The fully knotted top hoop looks like this.

I then soaked the goatskin in room temperature water for an hour.

I would suggest leaving for a while and coming back to work on this instead of watching over it or continuously checking the skin to see if it is ready yet.

Lay the wet skin out on some cardboard.
It looks like a very moist tortilla right now.
Don't make a wrap though, that would be foul.

Hawk Dancing suggests piercing the skin while it is laying flat on the cardboard in order to create holes to run a cord through.

I found it MUCH easier to just pinch the skin inbetween my fingers and snip it carefully to make about 1/4 inch long slits.

The approximate placement of those slits are indicated by the numbers on the picture above. You may make more if you feel the need to.

Once all the slits have been made and the skin is laying hair side up, center the metal hoop on the skin.

You can now begin to thread a cord through the slits. Follow an "out, in, out, in" pattern.

I used the old cord from my drum for this step since I didn't want to waste a section of the sturdy new Dacrop rope.

When you have threaded the cord all the way around, carefully pull the cord tight to gather the skin around the metal hoop.

Make sure the metal hoop stays centered while you do this in order to prevent later frustration with the skin.

Now place the skin onto the top of your drum body.

Carefully place the top hoop over the skin. When you do this, make sure your knots are on the outside edge of the hoop.

Flatten any areas where the skin has folded or puckered under the top hoop.


Note: In my next post I will cover the process for roping and tuning the djembe.

Djembe Repair - How to Wrap a Drum Hoop ( Visual Tutorial )

Last night I picked up some beautiful blue batik pattern fabric for wrapping the top hoop of my Djembe. I got 1/2 of a yard of this 45" fabric. I cut 1 inch wide strips out of it and barely needed two of those strips to wrap the hoop. I will likely use the rest of the fabric to make a head cover eventually.
As you can see below, the hoop was originally wrapped in a black fabric. It actually was a very thin, almost gauzy tape and really not of high quality. I decided to wrap the new fabric right over the old since the old stuff was so thin and I didn't want to deal with the frustration of trying to unravel the black tape from the hoop.
I started by folding the edge of my blue fabric over just enough to create a clean edge on one side. The picture offers a decent demonstration of this. I then put a little bit of glue on the hoop and wrapped the blue strip over once. Holding the blue strip taunt, I continued to wrap clockwise around the hoop at about a 45 degree angle. This ensured that the strip wound nicely around the curve while cleanly covering the raw edge on the other side.
When I had finished wrapping, I folded over the end and used some glue to seal it to the hoop. The effect was a nice spiral that was snug against the hoop all of the way around. I'm really happy with how it turned out. It almost looks like drops of blue water against a black background, which goes nicely with the fish motif on my drum.
I also ordered new rope and goat skin for the drum today. I was able to get the rope at about 1/4 the price I had seen on many drum sites, but I will explain more about that later. My next Djembe post will likely be after those items arrive and can be put to use.

Djembe Repair - Basic Drum Care ( Visual Tutorial )

About six years ago, an old friend and I picked up cousin djembes while on a trip to Erie, PA. I used mine on occasion, but for the last few years it has been neglected. It turns out that through three or four moves, exposure to heat and general drum loneliness, my djembe was in an unhappy state. The head had dried and cracked in the middle. The body was scratched and had bits of cobweb inside.

What happens to goat skin after heat and neglect.

Recently I've been reading about some drum circles in the area and decided to check in on the status of my drum. I knew I needed a new head and generally how to go about replacing it, but needed details. I found a nice set of instructions over at Hawk Dancing and went to work.

First I found the end of the rope, which was at the end of the drum handle and began to unweave. I would suggest that anyone who ventures into this pay close attention to how your rope is woven for the handle and tuning rows.

My poor djembe with the rope unwoven and the head removed.

Next I wiped down the drum with a clean cloth and prepped the playing edge for re-heading by applying and rubbing in few coats of beeswax. From my inspection of the drum, it seems that this step was skipped originally. I'm hoping this will improve the sound once I'm all finished.

Finally, I used my Ultimate Beeswax Polish to breath some new life into the wood djembe body. I have to say the combination of the wood, beeswax and lavender oil makes this drum smell amazing! The polish also diminished most of the scratching and left a nice satin finish on my wood. Now I just have to get a new goat skin drum head and get ready for Part II.